Why Winterizing Matters in the NYC Climate
New York City winters feature an average of 30 inches of snowfall, temperatures that regularly drop into the teens and single digits, repeated freeze-thaw cycles that heave soil and crack hardscape, road salt that damages plants and pavers, and desiccating wind that dehydrates evergreen foliage. Gardens that are not properly prepared for these conditions emerge in spring with dead plants, cracked containers, damaged irrigation systems, and stained hardscaping — all of which cost more to repair than winterizing would have cost to prevent.
Winterizing is a systematic process that should be completed between late October and mid-November, before the first hard freeze (typically early to mid-December in NYC, though earlier freezes are not uncommon). Here is the complete checklist we follow for every property we maintain.
Plant Protection
Cut back perennials after the first hard frost kills their foliage. Leave the basal foliage of evergreen perennials (Heuchera, Epimedium) intact — do not cut these to the ground. Apply 3 to 4 inches of shredded leaf or bark mulch over garden beds after the ground has cooled but before it freezes — this mulch insulates roots from freeze-thaw damage. Wrap tender evergreen shrubs (boxwood, certain hollies) with burlap if they are exposed to road salt spray or harsh wind. Anti-desiccant spray applied to broadleaf evergreens in late November reduces winter moisture loss through foliage.
For container gardens, move frost-sensitive containers indoors or to a sheltered location. Containers that must remain outdoors should be elevated on pot feet to prevent freeze-bonding to the surface and wrapped with insulating material (bubble wrap, burlap) to protect roots from extreme cold. Terracotta and thin-walled ceramic pots should always be stored indoors — they crack when water in the clay body freezes and expands.
Irrigation System Winterization
Irrigation winterization is mandatory — water left in pipes, valves, and emitters will freeze, expand, and crack components. Our winterization process uses compressed air at 40-60 PSI to blow all water from the supply line, control valves, lateral pipes, and emitter lines. The backflow preventer is shut down, drained, and tested. Above-grade components are insulated or removed. The controller is set to rain delay or off mode to prevent accidental activation during warm spells.
Schedule winterization for late October through mid-November. Waiting too late risks freeze damage before the service can be performed. We send reminder emails to all irrigation clients in early October and schedule appointments on a first-come, first-served basis. Properties that skip winterization routinely need $500 to $2,000 in spring repairs — far more than the $150 to $400 winterization service fee.
Hardscape and Equipment
Store outdoor furniture, cushions, and accessories in a dry, protected location. Clean and treat wood and teak furniture with oil before storing. Drain and coil garden hoses and store them indoors. Clean and sharpen garden tools. Service the lawn mower (oil change, blade sharpening, fuel stabilizer) before winter storage. Sweep and clean all hardscape surfaces before the first snow — debris trapped under snow and ice causes staining and promotes algae growth.
Inspect walkways and steps for loose pavers, cracked mortar, and uneven surfaces that could become tripping hazards when covered by ice and snow. Repair any issues before winter — a raised paver edge hidden under ice is a slip-and-fall lawsuit waiting to happen. Apply a breathable sealer to natural stone and concrete surfaces to protect against salt damage and freeze-thaw spalling. Stock de-icing materials (calcium chloride for walkways near plantings, rock salt for less sensitive areas) before the first storm.